Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Pattern Drafting: The basic foundation

This post has been rewritten and posted to my new blog, HERE

In my last post, I covered the basic and advanced pattern drafting tools. This time...I'd like to cover some basic terms. 

Pattern Drafting: A system of creating patterns that reflect an individuals (or sizing standard) measurements.
Flat Pattern Drafting: A system of making flat, 2 dimensional patterns.
Pattern "Blocks" or "Slopers": A five piece (or more) foundation of the basic patterns consisting of the front and back bodice, front and back skirt, and sleeve. Pattern blocks have been tested and have impeccable fit. All patterns stem from this basic foundation. Or, in other words, basic blocks are altered to create any variety of new styles.  

Basic Pattern Blocks by :: Isn't that Sew

Creating the basic pattern block
The basic foundation starts as a 2 dimensional flat pattern. It is drafted on paper and the dimensions are taken from the model or sizing standard. These measurements will dictate the basic shape of the pattern.
Pattern Shapes
Pattern blocks are created with a series of straight and curved lines. These straight and curved lines create a pattern by applying the individual measurements and "connecting the dots".
Darts help to define shape in a garment. Not all garments use darts. For example, knitwear does not require as much built in shaping as a woven fabric would need. Have a look at the illustration below to see exactly how darts remove fullness in a flat 2 dimensional pattern.

So, maybe your wondering why all of this in important? Well, having a basic understanding of pattern making terminology and the basic foundation of all pattern making is crucial to being able to create your own patterns from ready to wear. Next time, we will discuss how to start creating your own pattern blocks by using your existing clothing. -Ruth-

See Part I and Part I of the Pattern Drafting series here.

Why darts :: By: Isn't that Sew

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At October 24, 2013 at 12:27 PM , Anonymous Charlotte said...

This is so fascinating to read. Right now, it kinda sounds like Chinese to me, since I'm not at all familiar with sewing, but these will definitely be handy if I get to it one day (which, honestly, I really hope I will!).

Great series, Ruth! Very impressive!

At October 25, 2013 at 5:47 PM , Anonymous RuthLoiacano said...

Thanks Charlotte! I hope you do learn to sew! It's really not that hard. It's like driving a car...push the pedal and steer! I would really love to develop e-courses and do a really awesome post series...But, I'm so busy at work right now! It's my busy season and I'm torn 10 different ways!

At December 1, 2013 at 10:55 AM , Anonymous MissTi said...

Hey Charlotte, don't be intimidated by all the drafting! It is not a necessary part of sewing and there are plenty of experts who have seen for a lifetime without ever picking up an L-square or clear ruler. Go ahead and jump in where you are! Everyone starts at the same place. Where you go is up to you.


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